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ENERGY TIPS
Instead of an air conditioner,…
open windows on opposite sides of the house for cross-ventilation.
--Maine Public Utility Commission--
An ENERGY STAR® qualified furnace or air conditioning system,…
when properly sized and installed, along with sealed ducts and a properly used programmable thermostat, can save consumers as much as 20% on heating and cooling bills.
--ALLIANCE TO SAVE ENERGY--
In the average home…
40% of the electricity used to power home electronics is consumed while the products are turned off.
--New York State Energy Research and Development Authority--
Compact fluorescent bulbs save energy…
through technology. They use about one third of the energy of typical incandescent bulbs, last up to ten times longer, and generally pay back their higher purchase price in two years through lower utility bills.
--ALLIANCE TO SAVE ENERGY--
Checking your home's insulation…
is one of the most cost-efficient ways to use a whole-house approach to reduce energy waste and make the most of your energy dollars. A good insulating system includes a combination of products and construction techniques that protect a home from outside temperatures—hot and cold air leaks, and control moisture. You can increase the comfort of your home while reducing your heating and cooling needs by up to 10% by investing in proper insulation and sealing air leaks.
--Home Energy Saver Energy Advisor--
MORE ENERGY TIPS
ENERGY NEWS
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PRODUCT NEWS
 “The Black & Decker has a Thermal Leak Detector”
December , 2008 - giz4geeks.com
"The Black & Decker has a Thermal Leak Detector that will save your home heating bills..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker TLD100 Thermal Leak Detector finds drafts”
December 7, 2008 - Isiria.com
"Here would be something for the occasional tinkerer like me or even more the conscientous handyman/woman..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker TLD100 Thermal Leak Detector finds draft areas in your abode”
December 6, 2008 - Engadget.com
Darren Murph writes: "This one’s been around the block a time or two, but sadly, it still won’t be available for use as an in-law stocking stuffer..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker TLD100 Thermal Leak Detector finds draft areas in your abode”
December 6, 2008 - Taccato.com
"This one’s been around the block a time or two, but sadly, it still won’t be available for use as an in-law stocking stuffer..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker goes green with three energy-saving products”
December 9, 2008 - Gizmag.com
"Black & Decker might be looking at a name change to Green & Decker with the announcement of three new Energy Saver Series products..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Catch the Sneaky Bastard Wind With New Thermal Leak Detector”
December 10, 2008 - Gadget Lab
Jose Fermoso writes: "You always hear people saying they will find the air leaks present in their house before the winter comes, but they never seem to get around to it..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker Energy Power Monitor helps you save big bucks”
December 8, 2008 - DVice.com
Charlie White writes: "What's up with Black & Decker lately? The company's gone all green on us..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker Power Monitor”
December 2008 - uncrate.com
"Looking for a way to monitor your energy usage and cut down on power bills during the economic crunch?..."
Click here for the full article. |
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“Thermal Leak Detector saves 20% in energy costs”
December 5, 2008 - OZARKS spaces
"There are obvious ways to detect air leaks..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Thermal Leak Detector saves 20% in energy costs”
December 4, 2008 - dvice.com
Charlie White writes: "It's getting cold outside, and that chilly air is trying to sneak into your house..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Thermal Leak Detector Saves Up to 20 Percent in Energy Costs”
December 5, 2008 - cleantechnica.com
Ariel Schwartz writes: "Winter is setting in, and you know what that means: it’s time to turn on the heat. Many of us, however, are using more heat than necessary due to thermal leaks..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black & Decker Power Monitor
Now You Know… And Knowing Is Half The Battle”
November 25, 2008 - Gear Patrol
Dusty Overby writes: "... The B&D Power Monitor gives homeowners detailed feedback on their home’s propensity to guzzle power..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black and Decker TLD100 Thermal Leak Detector”
November 10, 2008 - Network World
Keith Shaw writes: "This cool gadget is a non-contact thermometer (NCT), and, as you might guess, it measures..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black and Decker EM100B Power Monitor”
November 10, 2008 - Network World
Craig Mathias writes: "...Everyone knows that turning off the lights (not the ones on the Christmas tree, however) and appliances will save power and thus bucks, but do you know which appliances and other devices are the worst offenders? This interesting approach from Black and Decker will help you find out..."
Click here for the full article. |
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“Review: Black & Decker Power Monitor”
November 3, 2008 - CrunchGear
Jeremy Kriegel writes: "If you’re anything like me, you have a slew of gadgets and a large electric bill. So when Black and Decker came out with their Power Monitor, I knew that this device was going to help raise awareness on how electricity was being used in my house."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black and Decker Power Monitor”
November, 2008 - gadget-gurus.com
Rich McComas writes: "In a greener more energy-conscious political enviroment, the Black and Decker EM100B Power Monitor is one of the hottest new home improvement gadgets of 2008..."
Click here for the full article. |
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October 2008
Welcome to the launch of www.EnergySaverSeries.com from Black & Decker! Here you will find product information, news and consumer success stories about the Power Monitor, Thermal Leak Detector, and Lights Out AutoSwitch, as well as other new products that will be introduced in late 2009.
The Power Monitor is now available via amazon.com. Click here for purchase information or to read some of the early Amazon Vine™ Program reviews.
Thanks!
Scott Pollard
Senior Product Manager, Black & Decker |
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Meter Compatibility Information
October 2008 - Black & Decker
Click here for important information on the Power Monitor compatibility. |
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 “Black and Decker LightsOut IR Gizmo Turns Lights Off For Lazy, Green Types”
October 27, 2008 – Gizmodo
Kit Eaton writes: "...Well, actually it's quite a neat gizmo—it's battery powered, and simply mounts directly over a light switch, which it then throws for you if it doesn't detect movement in front of its sensor..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black And Decker Lights Out Autoswitch - Motion Sensing Light Switch Timer And Controller”
October 27, 2008 – TechLime
"One of the biggest energy problems we face daily is the realization or just the guilt of not knowing if we have turned the lights off in our home as we leave for work..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black and Decker Lights Out Auto Switch”
October 22, 2008 – GearCrave
Joseph Penalver writes: "Let your presence control the lighting, not a light switch. When you enter a room, the lights can turn on for you– as well as turning off when they leave..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “ Dollars per watt: Black & Decker's home energy monitors help save power, money”
October 22, 2008 – iconoculture
Sarah Fazio writes: "Cutting back on household energy use can feel like a full-time job. Reminders to turn off the lights, turn down the heat and unplug gadgets when not in use only go so far..."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Two gizmos you didn't know you needed”
October 22, 2008 - pastdeadline.com
Barry Garron writes: "...I wonder how it was possible to spend so much just to power a toaster and a TV. And a refrigerator and air conditioner. And all that other stuff.
The Power Monitor is the answer."
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Black and Decker Power Monitor”
October 16, 2008 - TestFreaks Blog
Kristofer Brozio writes: "...After some thought I decided that yes it would fit, it’s a gadget, it’s electronic, and most of all I think it’s something very useful and something that many people would appreciate seeing a review of..."
Click here for the full article. |
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“Year End Gadgets Make For Good Holiday Gifts”
October 9, 2008 – NY1
NY1’s Adam Balkin highlights several holiday gifts and discusses the Thermal Leak Detector.
Click here for the full segment. |
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 “High tech tackles high energy bills”
October 8, 2008 – Philadelphia Daily News
Jonathan Takiff from the Philadelphia Daily News likens the Power Monitor to the Toyota Prius.
“There's a secondary reason, beside the hybrid technology, why the Prius achieves great efficiency.
Drivers have a second-by-second fuel monitoring system on the dash, right in front of their eyes, that conditions them to lift their foot off the pedal to reduce consumption.
A similar feedback/behavior modification model is now being made available at home with the Black & Decker Power Monitor. A sensor device, strapped to your home power meter, clocks the spinning of the meter's wheel and sends the data wirelessly to a handheld device you can carry around the house.”
Click here for the full article. |
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 “Win a Black & Decker Power Monitor”
October 6 - December 6, 2008 - ecobunga.com
"LogHome.com is giving away a Black & Decker Power Monitor that displays the electricity use in your home, minute by minute, in dollars or kW/hr and shows..."
Click here for details. |
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 “Black & Decker Launches Energy Saver Series Tools”
October 2, 2008 – Treehugger.com
"Jaymi Heimbuch discusses the new products from Black & Decker.
We are always on the prowl for gadgets that help reduce home energy consumption and save money. Three new Energy Saver Series tools from Black & Decker can soon be added to our artillery for fighting excess energy usage."
Click here for the full article. |
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| Magazines |
| Woman's Health, November 2008 |
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| Popular Mechanics, October 2008 |
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| Newspapers |
| Charlotte Observer, October 2008 |
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Providence Journal, October 2008 |
| Orlando Sentinel, October 2008 |
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Sun Sentinel, October 2008 |
| Philadelphia Daily News, October 2008 |
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FAQs
In order to use the Power Monitor, you need access to your electric meter, and your meter needs to within 60 feet of where you want to put your display. Your meter might be out of range if you live in an apartment or condominium.
The Power Monitor is compatible with up to 90% of electric meters in the US. To confirm that your meter is compatible, check this link for a complete list and images of meters known to be incompatible: Meter Compatibility
Non-Compatible Meters:
- Mechanical meter (dials or an odometer, like in a car), and a spinning wheel, but the front edge of the wheel is not visible. You are more likely to have this kind of meter if the meter is inside your home.
- Digital display (like on a calculator) and a two-port optical port (two adjacent holes, sometimes in a circular metal housing). You are more likely to have this kind of meter if you have time-of-use billing (you are charged a different rate for power at different times of the day).
Among the new generation of Smart meters, the Power Monitor is compatible with the GE I-210 meter, the Elster REX meter, and the Itron / Schlumberger Centron® meter.
It is not compatible with the Landis + Gyr Focus meter. Black & Decker will post any known compatibility problems on our web site, and your product is fully warranteed in the event that it is not compatible with your meter.
The Power Monitor Display needs to be within 60 feet (20 meters) of your electric meter in order to receive a signal. You may need to locate it closer if there are metal cabinets, steel beams, or metal stud walls between your meter and the Display.
You can remove the plastic stand on the display and mount it to a wall if you prefer.
If the Display is moved too far away from the Sensor, the animated bars will stop moving across the screen and the display will say “SLEEP”. Move the display closer and press any button to regain contact with the sensor.
You need to know your meter type in order to install the sensor properly. The photos in Section 3 of the Instruction Manual show the three types of meters: electromechanical, electronic with an optical port on the face, and electronic with an optical port on the top. The majority of existing meters fall under one of these generic types. Determine which photo most closely matches your meter, and follow the installation instructions for that meter type.
The STATUS light in the Sensor doesn’t come on until 10 seconds after pressing the RESET switch. If it doesn’t come on at all, try these steps:
1. Confirm that the batteries are inserted in the correct orientation. + and - symbols are printed on the green circuit board inside the battery compartment.
2. Confirm that the batteries are not dead. We recommend lithium batteries for longer life in freezing conditions.
3. Confirm that the battery lid is closed and screwed down. The lid has to be fastened down all the way for the batteries to make contact. The screw on the battery door should screw down until no threads are showing and it is holding the door closed. You might have to turn the screw hard to get it to go in all the way. If it will not seat, unscrew it, then realign the screw and try again.
 1. Make sure that you can see the edge of the spinning wheel from the front face of the meter. You don’t need to see the top or bottom, just the edge. Make sure that the glass is clean in front of the disk.
2. Turn on some appliances in the house to make the wheel rotate faster.
3. Align the sensor arm so it’s mostly parallel with the disk, centered in front of the disk, and as close to the glass as possible (ideally touching it). Lock it in place (tighten the strap and close the latch on the sensor). If you can’t get the strap tight enough, put the rubber shim between the sensor and the meter.
4. Press the RESET button on the sensor and wait until the red light comes on solid. The red light will stay solid for several seconds while the sensor figures out what kind of meter you have.
5. When the sensor arm is properly aligned, the red light will flash about a second after the black stripe goes by. If you still don’t see the flash, try adjusting the sensor arm from side to side, or up or down a little bit until you see the flash. If there’s a scratch or smudge on the glass, move the sensor arm to one side or the other, but keep the arm mostly parallel to the disk.
6. Some mechanical meters have a plastic dome instead of a glass one, and there’s a blemish in the plastic right in the spot where the sensor arm needs to look. Try moving the arm to be a little to the right of the blemish and at an angle, as shown in the image:
1. Check the compatibility guide on our web site to confirm that your meter is compatible, and that you’ve identified the correct optical port. If the port is on the front face of the meter, it will look like a little transparent dome. Make sure that the glass is clean in front of the port.
2. Turn on some appliances in the house to make it easier for the sensor to detect a signal. You can’t see it, but the port is flashing an infrared signal, and the flashing is faster when you use more power.
3. Align the sensor arm so the black dot on the end of the arm is over the optical port, and lock it in place (tighten the strap and close the latch on the sensor)
4. Press the RESET button on the sensor and wait until the red light comes on solid. The red light will stay solid for several seconds while the sensor figures out what kind of meter you have.
5. When the sensor arm is properly aligned, the red light will flash slowly. If you still don’t see the flash, try adjusting the sensor arm from side to side, or up or down a little bit until you see the flash.
1. This type of meter is labeled either “Schlumerger Centron®” or “Itron Centron®”.
On the top of the meter, through the glass, there’s a square hole and an oval hole with a small clear plastic pipe sticking up out of the oval hole. That’s the optical port. Make sure that the glass is clean in front of the port.
2. Turn on some appliances in the house to make it easier for the sensor to detect a signal. You can’t see it, but the port is flashing an infrared signal, and the flashing is faster when you use more power.
3. Follow the instruction manual to reconfigure the sensor for a “type 3” meter. You need to pull out the sensor arm and fit it into the body of the sensor. See the video on our web site.
4. Attach the clear plastic template to the top of the meter so the white arrow is pointing at, but not covering up the port.
5. Align the sensor over the top of the meter as shown in the manual for a type 3 meter.
6. Press the RESET button on the sensor and wait until the red light comes on solid. The red light will stay solid for several seconds while the sensor figures out what kind of meter you have.
7. When the sensor arm is properly aligned, the red light will flash slowly. If you still don’t see the flash, try adjusting the sensor from side to side, or forward or back a little bit until you see the flash. When you see the flash, tighten the mounting strap. Be careful that you don’t move the sensor out of alignment while tightening the strap.
The fast flashing indicates that the Meter Sensor has not received a signal from the meter, or can not see the rotating meter wheel, after 20 minutes of trying. Follow the steps in Section 3 of the instruction manual to make sure the Sensor is properly aligned on your meter. Then press the RESET button. The indicator will turn off and light up again after 10 seconds. You can then proceed with the installation normally.
This is exactly what you should see. Electronic meters produce one single pulse every time you have consumed one watt-hour. When the Meter Sensor first detects a pulse from an electronic meter, the STATUS indicator starts flashing. Thereafter, the indicator keeps on flashing at the same frequency. In addition, it will flash once every time it reads a pulse from your meter, at intervals that vary according to your current rate of electricity consumption. This periodic irregular flashing is absolutely normal.
Just snap the part back on and close the latch. You can adjust the arm position without lifting the latch all the way up.
This indicates that the Digital Display is in ID mode, searching for a signal from your Sensor. Press the RESET button on the Sensor. If the Display remains in ID mode, move it to a location between 2 and 10 feet (60 cm to 3m) of the Sensor, and then press the RESET button again.
The Power Monitor supports the following billing plans:
- flat-rate billing (you are charged a single rate for the amount of electricity you use)
- tiered billing (you are charged one rate for an initial amount of electricity, then a different rate for the next amount, and so on)
- time-of-use billing (you are charged different rated at different times of the day)
The power Monitor can also take into account any taxes or fees that are proportional to the amount of electricity you use.
The Power Monitor can not take into account fixed fees that are charged regardless of the amount of power you use.
If you are charged different rates in the summer and winter, you will have to program those new rates each season.
You should be able to tell from your bill. If you see the words “tier” on your bill, you probably have tiered billing. If you see the words “peak rate” and “off-peak rate” on your bill, you probably have time-of-use billing. Most power companies have excellent web sites that can help you understand your bill.
First, check you power company’s web site for an explanation of your bill, or call their support number. If you are still confused, use this technique to approximate your billing rate:
- From your latest bill, find the total electricity consumption. This number will be labeled in kWh, or kilowatt-hours.
- From your latest bill, find the total cost for electricity, including all fees and taxes. Make sure you have not added in costs for gas, water, or any other municipal services.
- Divide the total cost in dollars by the total consumption in kWh, for a flat billing rate in $/kWh.
- Multiply that number by 100 to get a flat billing rate in cents/kWh.
- Follow the instruction manual to enter that rate as a flat billing rate.
This approximation will give you a good idea of relative costs as you learn to be more efficient with your energy use.
This indicates that the Display is not receiving transmissions from the Sensor. Try these steps, in order:
- Move the Display closer to the Sensor. The Power Monitor has a range of 60 ft. (20 m), including transmission through an exterior wall. The range may be less if there are metal walls or beams between the Sensor and the Display. Also, the range may decrease as the batteries in the Sensor lose power, or in extremely cold weather. We recommend lithium batteries for the Sensor if the temperature falls below freezing.
- Inspect the Meter Sensor. Make sure that the batteries are not dead, and that the Sensor is still properly aligned on the meter. Press the RESET button on the Sensor. The STATUS light should light up solid, then begin flashing slowly (once per revolution for an electromechanical meter). Refer to Section 3 in the instruction manual if you need to re-align your Sensor, or refer to Question 1.6 above.
- Make sure the battery door on the sensor is closed all the way. The screw on the battery door should screw down until no threads are showing and it is holding the door closed. You should not have to turn the screw hard to get it to go in all the way. If it will not seat, unscrew it, then realign the screw and try again.
- Re-synchronize the Sensor and the Display. Bring the Display to within 2 feet of the Sensor. Press and hold the prog/ sync button on the Display until you hear two beeps and the Display says “id”. Then press and hold the RESET button on the Sensor for 6 seconds. When you release the RESET button, the Display should beep, and “id” will disappear. After two minutes, the Display should show data.
This indicates that the Display is not receiving transmissions from the Meter Sensor, and the Display has gone to sleep to save battery life. Press any button on the Display to wake it up. If the Display does not show data within two minutes, try these steps, in order:
- Move the Display closer to the Sensor. The Power Monitor has a range of about 60 ft. (20 m), including transmission through an exterior wall. The range may be less if there are metal walls or beams between the Sensor and the Display. Also, the range may decrease as the batteries in the Sensor lose power, or in extremely cold weather. We recommend lithium batteries for the Sensor if the temperature falls below freezing.
- Inspect the Meter Sensor. Make sure that the batteries are not dead, and that the Sensor is still properly aligned on the meter. Press the RESET button on the Sensor. The STATUS light should light up solid, then begin flashing slowly (once per revolution for an electromechanical meter). Refer to Section 3 of the instruction manual if you need to re-align your Sensor.
- Re-synchronize the Sensor and the Display. Bring the Display to within 2 feet of the Sensor. Press and hold the prog/sync button on the Display until you hear two beeps and the Display says “id”. Then press and hold the RESET button on the Sensor for 6 seconds. When you release the RESET button, the Display should beep, and “id” will disappear. After two minutes, the Display should show data.
Try turning on an electric appliance that consumes a large amount of power such as a stove or dryer. If the values on the Digital Display do not start to update within a few minutes, then the Meter Sensor is likely not aligned correctly on your utility meter. Try repeating the appropriate alignment steps described in the Instruction Manual.
Try resetting your display – you will have to re-program it with your billing information afterwards. Press the prog/sync and clr buttons simultaneously, until you hear a beep. You will have to follow the instructions in the Instruction Manual to synchronize to the Sensor and program your billing rates again.
Sometimes your meter can fog up on the inside of the glass, preventing the sensor from seeing the wheel or optical port. If the Display shows 0, you’re still getting a radio signal from the sensor. Wait until the weather changes and the measurement should reappear. If the display shows dashes or “SLEEP”, that means you have lost the signal. Heavy rain can weaken the radio signal from the sensor. Move the display closer to the sensor and press any button to wake it up. The Display will try to re-acquire the signal for 10 minutes.
You may have entered the wrong Power Factor (Kh), which calibrates the Digital Display to your electric meter. Use the tare feature to measure the consumption of your microwave or toaster, and compare the value on the Digital Display to the value marked on the nameplate of the appliance. If the numbers are off by a factor of 2 or more, you need to change the Power Factor. Refer to section 3 in the Instruction Manual. Go out to your electric meter and confirm the Power Factor (sometimes labeled Ks or Kt). On some larger homes, there may be a sticker on the meter indicating that your utility has changed the meter's Power Factor. Then, follow the programming instructions to enter a new value into the Digital Display.
If you have a mechanical meter (it has a rotating wheel), the sensor may be detecting scratches on the wheel, instead of just the black stripe. Turn on some lights or appliances in your house, then take a look at the your meter. Press the RESET button on the sensor. After 10 seconds, the red light will come on solid. Then after a minute, it will start to flash. It should only flash once per revolution of the wheel, shortly after you see the black stripe on the wheel pass by. If the red light flashes several times per wheel revolution, you need to adjust the position of the sensor arm. Move the sensor arm a little off-center from the wheel, and angle it up or down, as shown in the photo. You may need to use a screwdriver to loosen and re-tighten the clamping strap.
If the sensor has stopped flashing, press the reset button again, and confirm that the light flashes only once per disk revolution, just after the stripe goes by.
If your Display is not receiving a signal after re-adjusting the arm, you may need to re-synchronize it with the sensor. See section 4 in the instruction manual to re-synchronize.
Several factors can affect the accuracy of the information shown on your Digital Display and they all relate to interference. If your neighbor also has a Power Monitor system, you may be receiving their information. In this case, you need to change the Sensor address and re-synchronize the Digital Display. Repeat section 04 in the Instruction Manual, but press and hold the RESET button for five (5) seconds. This will cause the Sensor to select a new radio address.
Wireless devices, such as weather stations or old- style baby monitors and cordless phones, transmit information on frequencies similar to the Power Monitor. If you have a wireless weather station, try turning it off briefly and check to see if the Power Monitor Display returns to normal operation. If it does, then check to see if you can change the weather station’s operating channel.
It is unlikely that the Power Monitor will exactly match your bill. This product is intended to help you understand the cost of power as you use it, and to estimate your effectiveness as you learn to be more efficient in your energy use.
Some sources of error include:
- Not having the current rate programmed into the Display. For example, some utilities charge different rates in winter and summer. Some utilities change their rates every month.
- Not including taxes and fees when you calculate the rates to enter into the display
- Fixed fees and surcharges that can not be programmed into the display.
- Not knowing the exact time and date when the billing period starts, so you can reset the accumulated total.
The temperature shown on the Digital Display is the temperature at your electric meter – it does not measure the air temperature. If your electric meter is exposed to direct sunlight, or there has been a freeze overnight, the reading will be higher or lower than the air temperature. The reading will match the air temperature more closely when it is in the shade, and when the outside temperature has not changed significantly over the last hour.
“Tare” is a term used on weighing scales. When you go to a salad bar, the cashier uses a Tare button to zero out the weight of your plate and just weigh the salad. Our button works the same way. It zeros out all the ongoing power use – lights, TVs, other appliances – and lets you see only the power consumption of the next item you turn on.
The minimum power level that the Power Monitor can measure is 0.1 kW (100 Watts). A single incandescent light bulb consumes about 60 Watts. It’s about the same for a computer, and even less for a compact fluorescent light bulb. So you won’t be able to measure a power level that low.
You will be able to measure a computer plus a large monitor, or a large TV, or a room full of lights. And these are the items that cost you money to operate.
Actually, it takes 30 seconds to one minute. The Display gets a new measurement from the Sensor every 30 seconds (any sooner and your batteries wouldn’t last). To get an accurate measurement of an appliance, you should:
- Press the Tare button
- Then turn on the appliance
- Wait at least a minute and a half, so that the display has received at least two measurements
If some other device in your house turns on at the same time, or shortly after you turn on the appliance you’re measuring (sump pump, refrigerator compressor, kids turn on a light in another room), your appliance measurement will be affected. To try again:
- Turn off the appliance you were trying to measure.
- Exit Tare mode (press the Tare button again. The display should not say “TARE” in the upper left-hand corner)
- Wait for at least one minute, allowing time for the Display to update and for any automatic appliance to end its cycle (sump pump or refrigerator compressor turns off).
- Press the Tare button again (“TARE” appears in the upper left-hand corner)
- Turn on the appliance
- Wait at least a minute and a half, so that the display has received at least two measurements
Using the Tare button is all about timing. The Tare button zeros out your current power measurement. If your power usage goes up or down after you press the button, that change will show, positive or negative. For example, if your electric hot water heater was on before you pressed the Tare button, and then it turns off, your household power consumption will drop and the display will show a negative number. A lot of devices in your home turn on and off automatically (sump pump, refrigerator compressor, dehumidifier) and they may affect your Tare measurement.
You need 4 AA batteries; two for the Sensor, and two for the Display. We recommend name-brand alkaline batteries for best life. If you expect freezing weather, we recommend lithium AA batteries for the Sensor; they last longer in cold weather.
No. Rechargeable AA batteries have a lower voltage than alkaline or lithium batteries and will not operate the electronics properly. Also, they will not last nearly as long as a single-use battery before needing to be recharged.
If you use name-brand batteries, they should last about 6 months in both the Sensor and the Display.
Regular alkaline batteries can become exhausted very rapidly when it is extremely cold outside. If you are expecting an extended period of temperatures below 32°F (0°C), try using lithium AA batteries in the Meter Sensor. They last longer in cold weather.
No. The Power Monitor uses an infrared sensor to count the revolutions of the wheel (if you have a mechanical meter), or count the flashes from the optical port (if you have a digital meter). The sensor can not in any way affect the reading on your meter.
Most power companies are aware of this product and do not have a problem with it as long as the sensor is not getting in the way of the meter reader.
However, it is the user’s responsibility to ensure compliance with their power company’s policies. Do not install the Power Monitor on meters designated as incompatible; the sensor may obstruct your utility’s ability to read the meter. It is the user’s responsibility to re-install a sensor removed for meter maintenance.
The Sensor has a weather-proof tag that explains the product to your meter reader and includes a phone number the utility can call for further information. Do not remove the tag.
If you have a digital meter with a 2-port optical port (2 adjacent holes, sometimes in a circular metal housing), the meter reader may need to access that port to make his reading each month. If that is the case, we recommend you remove your Power Monitor and return it to the place of purchase for a full refund. Please accept our apologies for your inconvenience.
The use and depiction of specific meters in this document does not represent or imply that the Power Monitor has been approved or endorsed by their manufacturer or your local power company. All brand, product names and other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
Click here for printable PDF
The AutoSwitch works on toggle-style switches in single or multi-switch panels. It does not work on:
- switches that move side-to-side rather than up-and-down
- paddle (Decora) switches
- most dimmer switches
- heavy-duty industrial-grade toggle switches
- “Three-way” switches (where a light is controlled by more than one switch)
No.
The AutoSwitch will work with some toggle-style switches that have a small dimmer control next to the toggle. However, you will not have access to the dimmer control when the AutoSwitch is installed.
The AutoSwitch is not compatible with dimmer switches that do not have a toggle-style lever.
No. The AutoSwitch can’t tell if someone has activated one of the other switches, so it won’t know if it is flipping the light on or flipping the light off when it detects motion.
Yes. The AutoSwitch will operate over a wide temperature range. However, the battery life may be shorter than normal when operating at very cold temperatures (for example, an unheated garage during winter). Lithium batteries will perform better at cold temperatures.
Do not use the AutoSwitch in a location where it could be exposed to rain or water.
Use the AutoSwitch anywhere you want the convenience and energy savings of hands-free lighting, where the light switch has a clear view of the room occupants, and where the occupants move from time to time. Ideal locations are offices, conference rooms, bathrooms, play-rooms, garages, and basements.
Suppose you set the timer setting for five minutes. When the AutoSwitch does not detect motion, it will start counting down for five minutes. If it does not detect any motion for five minutes, it will turn the light off. If the AutoSwitch does detect motion, it starts counting over again.
A short timer setting will turn the light off sooner when the room is empty, saving more energy. However, a longer timer setting makes it less likely for the lights to turn off if you’re sitting still, or your motion is not visible to the AutoSwitch.
If the AutoSwitch has a clear view of the entire room, and the room occupants move frequently, use the shorter timer settings (1 or 5 minute)
If the AutoSwitch does not have a clear view of the entire room (for example, if there is a shower stall in a bathroom), or if the room occupants tend to sit still for long periods of time (an office, a TV room), use the longer timer setting (15 or 30 minutes).
Besides detecting motion, the AutoSwitch detects the brightness of the room. If the room is already illuminated from other light sources (ambient light), such as a window, the AutoSwitch will know to ignore motion and not turn on the lights. If the lights are already on, the AutoSwitch will turn them off if the room much brighter, for example if you open a shade. The Ambient Light switch sets the brightness level that will prevent the AutoSwitch from turning on.
Set the switch to the bottom position (small sun icon) if you want the AutoSwitch to turn the light off if it detects a small amount of ambient light.
Set the switch to the top position (large sun icon) if you want the AutoSwitch to turn the light on no matter how bright the room is already.
There are 4 settings total. You may have to experiment to find the best setting for your room conditions.
Most light switches turn the light on when the switch is in the up position. However, some switches turn the light on when they are in the down position. The Polarity switch lets you adapt the AutoSwitch for either type of light switch.
If your light turns on with the switch in the up position, set the polarity switch to the up position. This is how the AutoSwitch is set up out of the box.
If your light turns on with the switch in the down position, set the polarity switch to the down position.
If sometimes your light turns on in the up position, and sometimes turns on in the down position, that means you have more than one switch controlling your light. The AutoSwitch is not compatible with this kind of light switch.
The AutoSwitch uses a heat detector to look for warm objects that move horizontally across the room. It will detect just a few inches of horizontal motion. The detector has a 90 degree horizontal viewing angle, and a
12 foot (4m) viewing range.
Yes, if they enter then range of the motion sensor. The sensor looks down at about a 45 degree angle. The sensor will see even a small animal if it is at least 5 feet away from the AutoSwitch.
The AutoSwitch uses a special mechanism that prevents the light switch from getting stuck midway through flipping. A motor winds this mechanism up after each flip. That’s the noise you hear.
If you are leaving the room and want to turn out the lights manually, just flip the large manual switch on the front of the AutoSwitch. The motion detector will ignore motion for 15 seconds so you have time to leave the room.
Note that when you return to the room, the AutoSwitch mechanism will go through two cycles, first moving to the Off position (even though the light switch is already off), and then moving the switch to the On position.
If you want to disable the AutoSwitch for a while (for example to take a nap and not have the lights come on), turn off the power switch on the side of the AutoSwitch. You can operate the light manually with the large switch on the front without having to take the AutoSwitch off the wall.
Your AutoSwitch should last about 1 year with fresh, high-quality alkaline batteries. Life might be shorter if the AutoSwitch is located in a very cold location (an unheated garage), or if the cycles per day are very high (more than 10 cycles per day on average).
The AutoSwitch needs to see motion or it will time out and turn off the lights. Try setting the timer switch to a longer setting. If the AutoSwitch’s view of the room is obstructed, you might need to try it on a different light switch.
Try a lower setting for the Ambient Light switch. When the switch is in the top position, it will completely ignore ambient light.
This can happen if the light switch controls a very bright light (like ceiling lights in an office) and if the Ambient Light switch setting is too low. When the light turns on, the brightness sensor thinks the room is too bright and tells the AutoSwitch to turn the light off.
Move the Ambient Light switch to a higher setting to immediately fix the problem.
The AutoSwitch interprets a moving heat signature as motion. Sometimes it’s possible for the sensor to interpret other moving sources of heat, such as a furnace cycling on and off, or a curtain moving over an air vent, as motion.
Use the motion detector shade to block the sensor’s view of the heat source.
If that’s not possible, turn the power switch on the side of the AutoSwitch to off, then turn it back on when the heat source is on. When you turn on the AutoSwitch, it calibrates itself for 30 seconds (while the red light is blinking), and it will teach itself to ignore the heat source.
If you just turned on the AutoSwitch and the light is flashing slowly (about 1 flash per second), this sensor is calibrating itself. This is normal, and the AutoSwitch will begin to operate after 30 seconds.
If the red light is flashing quickly, either the batteries are low or there is a fault, and the AutoSwitch has disabled itself.
If the AutoSwitch was previously working, you need a new set of batteries.
If this is the first time you installed the AutoSwitch on this light, make sure that AutoSwitch is installed properly. You need to match the light switch position with the Manual Switch position on the front of the AutoSwitch. Refer to Figure 4 in the instruction manual.
If that doesn’t fix the problem, make sure that you can manually flip the light switch without too much effort. If the light switch is old, painted over, or extremely difficult to flip, the AutoSwitch may not be able to actuate it. The AutoSwitch will try to flip the switch three times. If it fails, it will return disable itself and flash the red light. In that case, try the AutoSwitch on a different light switch.
This can happen if the light switch is difficult to flip, or if the AutoSwitch is not securely snapped to the mounting plate.
Make sure you have not removed the cover plate that was originally over your light switch. The gray plastic mounting plate goes over your existing cover plate, as shown in the instruction manual.
Next, make sure that the AutoSwitch is securely snapping over the metal mounting clips. If it is not holding securely, loosen the cover plate screws and insert the paper spacer in between the cover plate and the gray mounting plate. Then re-tighten the screws. There is a diagram on the paper spacer showing how to install it.
Note that for most installations, you will not need to use the paper spacer.
If the AutoSwitch is still not secure, gently bend the metal mounting clips outward a few millimeters.
If the AutoSwitch is still ejecting itself rather than flipping the light switch, you will have to use it on a different light switch.
Snap the Motion Detector Shape over the left or right side of the sensor to block its view out the door. This plastic part acts as an eye patch to restrict the sensor’s viewing angle.
You have the AutoSwitch installed on a three-way switch, and the other switch controlling the light has been flipped. So sometimes moving the light switch up will turn the light on, and sometimes moving the light switch down will turn the light on. The AutoSwitch won’t be able to figure this out. You will need to use the AutoSwitch on a different light switch.
Click here for printable PDF
The temperature range is -22ºF to 302ºF (-30ºC to 150ºC).
Yes – the Thermal Leak Detector is not sensitive to the ambient temperature.
Yes – the Thermal Leak Detector is not sensitive to the ambient temperature.
The Thermal Leak Detector is more accurate when the surface temperature is closer to room temperature and less accurate when the surface temperature is significantly higher or lower. As a reference,
- At freezing (32ºF, 0ºC), the accuracy is ±5ºF (±2.8ºC)
- At room temperature (73ºF, 23ºC), the accuracy is ±2.5ºF (±1.3ºC)
- At boiling (212ºF, 100ºC), the accuracy is ±5ºF (±2.8ºC)
We recommend that you do not use the Thermal Leak Detector for determining if food is properly cooked or "done." It measures the surface temperature of an object, not the interior temperature.
When you point the Thermal Leak Detector at a window, it will measure a combination of the infrared light coming through the window and the infrared light coming from the surface of the window. To measure the temperature of a window or other reflective object, put a large piece of masking tape on the glass, and wait a few minutes for the tape temperature to match the glass temperature. Then point the Thermal Leak Detector at the tape.
Measurements of objects you see through the window will not be accurate, but you will probably be able to tell the difference between hot areas and cold areas.
All objects, even cold ones, give off infrared light. The Thermal Leak Detector measures the amount of infrared light coming off a surface, and calculates the temperature.
The colored spot indicates where the Thermal Leak Detector is pointing, but it does not help make the temperature measurement.
The Thermal Leak Detector measures the average temperature over an area, and the area gets bigger as you get farther away from the surface. The area does not correspond exactly to the size of the colored spot.
The size of the area that’s measured is 1/6 the distance to the surface. For example, if the Thermal Leak Detector is 6 inches away from a surface, it is measuring the average temperature over a spot that is 1 inch in diameter. If the Thermal Leak Detector is 6 feet away, it is measuring the average temperature over a spot that is 1 foot in diameter.
The Thermal Leak Detector can still tell the difference between hot and cold areas if you are very far away, but the temperature measurement will be less accurate, and it will be harder for you to pinpoint the exact location of a hot or cold spot, because you are averaging over a larger area. The ideal distance is about 1 to 2 feet, because the colored spot size will correspond to the size of the area that the Thermal Leak Detector is measuring. If you are too far away to see the colored spot, you should move closer.
For most applications (looking for thermal leaks in your home), start with the slider set to 5ºF (3ºC). This means that the green spot of light will change to red or blue if the surface temperature changes by more than 5º.
If you don’t see any color change as you scan the surface, try the 1ºF (0.5ºC) setting. This might be necessary if the outside temperature is not much different from the inside temperature of your home.
If the color changes immediately or too often as you scan the surface, try the 10ºF (5.5ºC) setting. This might be necessary of the outside temperature is much colder or hotter than the inside temperature of your home.
If you just want to measure the temperature of a surface and you don’t need to find hotter or colder areas, slide the switch to the top position, indicated by the blue and red circles with Xs over them
  . When the threshold switch is in this position, the colored spot will stay green, regardless of the temperature.
You may have the threshold switch set to a value that is too low. Slide the switch to the 5ºF (3ºC) or 10ºF (5.5ºC) setting. You may also need to turn the power button off, aim the Thermal Leak Detector at your reference point again, and turn the power back on. Be sure to hold the Thermal Leak Detector in place until the green light comes on and the screen shows a reference temperature (the number next to the word “REF”).
You may have the threshold switch set to a value that is too high, or set to the top position (blue and red circles with Xs ). Slide the switch to the 1ºF (0.5ºC) or 5ºF (3ºC) setting. You may also need to turn the power button off, aim the Thermal Leak Detector at your reference point again, and turn the power back on. Be sure to hold the Thermal Leak Detector in place until the green light comes on and the screen shows a reference temperature (the number next to the word “REF”).
You may have moved the Thermal Leak Detector before it had a chance to measure a reference temperature. When you turn the Thermal Leak Detector on, it uses the first surface it’s aimed as a reference. It needs about 2 seconds to measure that temperature. When you first turn on the Thermal Leak Detector, be sure to hold it in place until the green light comes on and the screen shows a reference temperature (the number next to the word “REF”).
Open the battery door. The switch is located above the battery. You can change the units while the Thermal Leak Detector is turned on.
COMPATIBILITY
Meter Compatibility Information
October 2008 - Black & Decker
Click here for important information on the Power Monitor compatibility. |
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